Why winter maintenance matters for a wooden pilot gig

When the rowing season winds down and the dark evenings draw in, your wooden pilot gig deserves more than a tarpaulin thrown over her. Winter is when the hull, fittings, and finish face their toughest test: damp air, frost, and long periods out of the water can all take their toll. A little regular attention now will protect the wood, prevent small problems becoming expensive ones, and mean she is ready to launch the moment spring arrives. Whether you row on the Cornish coast or take part in coastal rowing elsewhere, the principles are the same: inspect, clean, feed, and protect.

Start with a thorough inspection

Before you do anything else, give the whole boat a careful look over. Work in good light, ideally with the boat under cover or on a calm, dry day. Run your hands along the hull, paying close attention to the planking, the keel, the stem and stern, and the gunwales. Look for soft spots, cracks, lifted paint, or any signs of rot. Pay particular attention to areas where water sits, such as under the thwarts, around the rowlocks, and along the keel.

• Tap the hull gently with a small hammer or the handle of a screwdriver. A dull thud may indicate rot or delamination.
• Check all fastenings, rivets, and roves. Look for weeping rust or loose fittings.
• Inspect the thwarts, seats, and floorboards for cracks or wear.
• Examine the stem and stern where the planks meet — these are common spots for water ingress.
• Note anything that needs repair and make a list. Prioritise structural issues before cosmetic ones.

Clean her down properly

Dirt, salt, and grime trap moisture against the wood and hide problems. Give the gig a gentle but thorough wash. Use fresh water and a mild soap — never a pressure washer, which can force water into the grain and damage the finish. A soft brush and sponge are ideal. Rinse well and allow to dry completely before moving on. If you find any mould or green algae, treat it with a diluted vinegar solution and rinse again.

• Scrub the hull, inside and out, including under the thwarts and around the centreboard case if fitted.
• Clean the rowlocks and oars separately — they will need their own care later.
• Remove any old flaking varnish or paint with a scraper and sandpaper. Sand with the grain, using a medium grit followed by a finer one.
• Wipe down with a tack cloth to remove dust before applying any finish.

Feed and protect the wood

Wood needs nourishment, especially in winter. For a traditional pilot gig, the choice of finish often depends on what was used before. If the boat is oiled, continue with a good quality boiled linseed oil or a dedicated wood oil. If she is varnished, use a marine varnish with UV protection. Never mix the two without stripping back first. Apply thin coats, allowing each to dry fully. Two or three coats are usually enough for winter protection, but check the manufacturer's recommendations.

• Oiled hulls: Warm the oil slightly for better penetration. Apply with a lint-free cloth, working it into the grain. Wipe off any excess after twenty minutes.
• Varnished hulls: Sand lightly between coats with fine paper. Thin the first coat to help it soak in, then build up with full-strength varnish.
• Painted areas: Touch up any bare patches. Use a primer before the topcoat.
• Pay extra attention to end grain — the stem, stern, and the ends of the thwarts. These soak up water fastest and dry out quickest.

Look after fittings and oars

Metal fittings, rowlocks, and oars all need winter care too. Rust and corrosion can take hold quickly in a damp boat shed. Remove rowlocks and crutches, clean them, and check for wear. A little grease on moving parts will keep them working smoothly. Wooden oars should be sanded and oiled or varnished in the same way as the hull. Check the blades for cracks and the handles for splinters.

• Inspect the rudder, if fitted, and its fittings. Check for play in the gudgeons and pintles.
• Clean and oil the rowlocks. Replace any that are bent or badly worn.
• Store oars horizontally, supported along their length, to prevent warping.
• Check the boat's cover or tarpaulin. Make sure it allows air to circulate — a tight, non-breathable cover can trap condensation and encourage rot.

Store her with care until spring

Where and how you store your gig matters as much as the work you do. Ideally, keep her under cover in a well-ventilated shed or garage. If she must stay outside, use a breathable cover that is propped up to allow air to flow underneath. Avoid resting the hull directly on damp ground; use wooden blocks or a proper cradle. If possible, turn the boat upside down or at least ensure the cockpit drains freely. Check on her every few weeks. Look for any new cracks, loose fittings, or signs of damp. A quick wipe-down and a top-up of oil on any dry patches will keep her in good order. By the time the first spring regatta comes around, she will be sound, beautiful, and ready to row.